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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.